Sustainability is at the centre stage of the global fashion industry for all stakeholders including governments, fashion brands and consumers. Aside from the sustainable fashion processes and textiles exclusive to the African fashion industry such as the Nigerian Aso-Oke or Ghanian Kente, a closer look at some current practices of the African consumer reveals that the average African consumer engages consistently in sustainable fashion activities. A throwback to some of the sustainable fashion practices experienced by mostly millennials and baby boomers who grew up in African homes reveals this.
The Informal Circular Model
The circular model was present in most African homes. It was an unwritten code — if it’s oversized, wear it until it fits; if it’s too small, don’t throw it away, identify someone and give it out. The communal nature of African households ensured that there was a line of people to give clothing and receive clothing from, either neighbours, cousins, or colleagues. Old and unwearable clothes were never destined for the bin. They were stored to become cleaning rags. It was common to have brides wear an adjusted and reworked version of their mother/ family member’s wedding gown. I remember being a bridesmaid at an extended family member’s wedding and using leftover fabric from my mother’s wedding gown. There was never the option to throw away clothing.
Hand-Me-Downs Were a Staple
Think back to the days when “hand-me-downs” were a trend in families. How many of your clothes became the next best thing for your sibling or cousin and how many did you inherit from an older sibling? It didn’t matter if you were the only girl amongst your male brothers, 8-year-old Levi jeans were preserved and passed down to you. There was also the case of receiving new oversized clothing, especially as a growing child. Rather than buy the exact size of your favourite shirt, the go-to was to buy at least clothing 3x your size so that you could grow into it. Until then, leather belts held baggy trousers in place, and shoe fillers served as the reliable and trusted support for oversized shoes.
Mend it, Don’t Ditch It
Sewing was a basic skill in the 60s and most women were required to pick it up as a skill. I was surprised to learn recently that my dad knows how to operate a manual sewing machine because it was a basic skill he learnt as a kid. Throwing away a torn shirt or a gown missing a button was not an option. The prevalence of the mobile tailor is evidence that this culture is ingrained. Otherwise known as “Ejika ni shop” in the Yoruba language (translated as mobile tailor) and known as “Obioma” in the Eastern parts of Nigeria. The sustainable fashion culture amongst Nigerians gave birth to others like the mobile tailor and the mobile shoemaker who roamed neighbouring streets, to mend clothes or fix faulty shoes for a fee. Their presence and loud advertisement sounds can still be felt in towns but are becoming scarce in the cities.
Sunday Bests and Generational Treasures
Unlike today, where there is usually an array of clothes to pick from for your favourite outing. Sunday bests were common amongst both adults and children alike, who had a treasured “best collection” reserved for special events. You could tell if you were going to Mr Biggs based on the suit or Agbada set your father selected for an outing. Rather than walk-in closets with hundreds of clothes and items, grandmothers had treasured trunks of heritage fabrics (Kente, Aso-Oke, Adire) and accessories that were stored for special events. Coral beads and generational gold were worn on special occasions and the pleasure of repeatedly wearing them was a good excuse to show off your family heirlooms and heritage.
Custom-made Clothing for Special Events
In some climes, it may be labelled haute couture but we have been riding on made-to-measure for a while now. Rather than frequent boutique shopping on the whim, the visit to the neighbourhood tailor was planned beforehand with parents with a selection of styles from traditional fashion lookbooks and magazines.
Cloth Swaps
It’s not so common anymore but apparently, trade by barter was commonplace in the ancient days as a means of purchase especially for farm produce. This was also extended to other aspects such as clothing. Friends exchange clothing items that may fit their friends or suit an upcoming occasion. This practice is still common in the Akpabuyo community in the Cross River area of Nigeria, but mostly for foodstuff items.
Do you still practice any of this and do you have any sustainable fashion practices from way back that are not on this list? Feel free to share.
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Featured Image by Wavy Revolution for Pexels
