It was still dark as our plane began its descent into Muscat. Below us, the inky black waters of the Gulf of Oman reflected the light of the silvery moon and the shadowy outlines of the saw-toothed Jabal Akhdar Mountains encircled the still-sleeping city.
The airport was quiet, our flight the only one landing at this time of day. Quickly through immigration, we emerged into the arrivals area of the terminal, where a uniformed driver awaited. Through the terminal and into the waiting car, we headed straight out of town, towards the mountains.
The road wound through the outskirts of Muscat, gradually giving way to the rugged vastness of the Omani desert. As we get closer to the mountains, the landscape becomes even more dramatic, with jagged peaks rising against the slowly brightening sky. The air grows cooler as we climb. We pass small villages and traditional stone houses, clinging to the hillsides.
Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar: A high-altitude haven
It had taken seven years to finish the winding, steep road, that’s taken us from modern Muscat up to the remote Saiq Plateau – a fabulous feat of engineering that has changed the lives of the local villagers, who’d previously had to negotiate the rugged terrain by donkey. At the end of the road, and the end of our two-hour journey, lies the stunning Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort.
We’re ushered to our room which, perched on the edge of a steep canyon 2,095m above sea level, has incredible views. Light pours into the room, glistening and reflecting off the swimming pool on our deck, and we can see remote-looking clusters of buildings dotted along the opposite side of the canyon. We head out to explore.
The Jabal Al Akhdar Mountains and the Saiq Plateau
Home to several traditional villages, the Saiq Plateau is a stark contrast to Oman’s arid lowlands. Over centuries the people here have adapted to the mountainous environment, laboriously constructing sturdy stone houses, timeless terraced farms and an ancient irrigation system known as ‘falaj’, that channels water from mountain springs directly to their fields. There are around 58 different villages scattered throughout these mountains; once inhabited by farmers and their families, but now predominantly abandoned. The handful of residents who remain permanently, live a lifestyle that’s deeply connected to the land they’ve cultivated for generations.
Home to several traditional villages, the Saiq Plateau is a stark contrast to Oman’s arid lowlands. Over centuries the people here have adapted to the mountainous environment, laboriously constructing sturdy stone houses, timeless terraced farms and an ancient irrigation system known as ‘falaj’, that channels water from mountain springs directly to their fields. There are around 58 different villages scattered throughout these mountains; once inhabited by farmers and their families, but now predominantly abandoned. The handful of residents who remain permanently, live a lifestyle that’s deeply connected to the land they’ve cultivated for generations.
Omani rose water
Perhaps the most prized crop though is the Damask rose, known locally as ‘wardh’, which is harvested in March and April and distilled to make world-famous Omani rosewater. Blooming in spring, the roses fill the air with their delicate, sweet scent. Farmers rise early to handpick the delicate rose petals, while their fragrance is at its strongest. The petals are then distilled, using traditional clay ovens or copper stills. It takes three hours to turn 1.5kg of these heady pink blooms into raw rosewater. Each batch will still take a further three to four months of cooling, filtration and storage before it becomes the smokiest and darkest rosewater, and can command a price of around 9 Omani Rials (£20) per 750ml bottle. It’s a time-honoured craft, passed down through generations.
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Endless views and Omani architecture
Back at the hotel, the views are incredible. Diana’s Point, a glass-sided platform named after the late Princess of Wales, who had visited in the 1980s, quickly became our favourite sundowner and dinner spot. Watching the sun dip below the canyon from here was unforgettable—although the view from our room’s terrace was almost as good.
The resort’s fortress-like stone walls, huge arched windows, and intricately carved woodwork reflect Oman’s cultural heritage. Indoors traditional elements like tadelakt plasterwork and zellij tiles are incorporated and in the gardens, pathways lead to a traditional hammam, a luxurious spa, and secluded spots for stargazing. It took four years to build the resort – I think it was time well spent!
Magical Muscat
From the mountains, it was time to head back down to Muscat to explore some more. Sharp switchbacks and steep inclines gave way to a sea of whitewashed buildings and a coastline kissed by the waters of the Arabian Sea.
Muscat, clings to the coast, sitting between the Gulf of Oman and the towering Jabal Akhdar Mountains. Surrounded by the shiny megacities of the Gulf, Oman favours tradition and the country has banned skyscrapers in favour of a low-rise, whitewashed aesthetic. Untouched by mass tourism and without the skyscraper flashiness and crowds of its UAE neighbours, what sets the country apart from its neighbours, is its commitment to authenticity. Oman has resisted the pull of mass tourism, instead focussing on preserving its culture while embracing modernity.
The Chedi Muscat
The Chedi Muscat was our home for the next few days – the perfect mix of a central city location, with gorgeous ocean views. Acres of manicured green lawns, swaying palm trees, meandering pathways, bubbling water features, three azure swimming pools, a private 370m long beach, and some truly wonderful restaurants.
The hotel has a legendary reputation in the Middle East. This was the first luxury hotel to be built in Oman, and it has become the benchmark for Omani hospitality. Two decades later people still flock here from around the world, to experience its understated luxury.
Exploring Muscat
Dragging ourselves away from the deliciously warm ocean, it was time to explore the city. We signed up for a private tour with a local guide, Hajer Al Muzayni. Hajer works as a guide for With Locals and has her finger on the pulse of the city – aside from all the regular sights, she showed us some of the hidden gems and quirky corners of Muscat that most tourists might miss. Sign up for a 5-hour Full Coverage Muscat City Tour and ask for her by name!
First stop was the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Oman’s mosques are a notable exception to the country’s ‘no tall buildings’ policy and the mosque, in the heart of Muscat, dominates the city’s skyline with its 91m minaret. Quietly imposing from the outside, this incredible example of modern Islamic architecture, was a gift to the nation from Sultan Qaboos, to mark his 30th year of reign. The main prayer hall is magnificent. The carpet alone, measuring 70m by 60m, took 600 women four years to weave. The mosque can accommodate 20,000 worshippers, and with its ornate courtyards, mosaics, prayer halls and beautifully manicured gardens, is one of the prettiest sights in the city.
Next on the agenda was the Mutrah corniche. We strolled along the 2km promenade, stopping for some strong, sweet cardamom tea, known as karak chai. Spiced with cardamom, clove, cinnamon and ginger, and mixed with sweetened condensed milk, which give is an intense creaminess, this tea is super delicious!
Continuing along the corniche, we marvelled at the Masjid Al Rasool Al Adham, a blue-domed Shia mosque that dates back to the 15th century, before calling in at the 200-year-old Mutrah Souq. Here we wandered the length of the covered market, from the entrance gate at the Corniche, all the way to the exit gate in the old quarters of the city. Vintage furniture, souvenirs, jewellery, traditional Omani daggers, spices, incense and perfumes, we saw it all.
Muscat’s glistening white marble Opera House was our last port of call. Known for its exceptional acoustics, the building is the city’s hub of arts and culture, regularly hosting musical performers from all around the world. Performances are surprisingly affordable, though you can, like us, just take a quick guided tour of the inside.
Tasting Muscat
For a pick-me-up along the way, we called in at a local hot spot for some Omani coffee, kahwa. Typically quite weak, with hints of rosewater and saffron, kahwa is a popular social drink because, as it’s not strong, you can sit with your friends and drink numerous cups in a row.
By the end of our tour, we’d worked up quite an appetite and were looking for something a little more substantial than coffee. There’s not much street food in Oman. But what Hajer introduced us to was mishkak, skewers of barbequed meat and seafood. Marinated in garlic, ginger, and spices, then grilled over flaming hot charcoal, mishkak is eaten either with spicy chilli sauce or tamarind sauce. We called in at one of the permanent street food stalls along the beach area and, taking a seat at one of the plastic tables and chairs in the car park, devoured the smoky skewers.
No meal is complete without dessert, so we headed for Al Diwaniya, one of the best places in Muscat for Halwa, a very sweet, sticky Omani dessert, cooked into a thick paste and seasoned with rosewater, saffron, and nuts. This is one of the only authentic Omani desserts and if, like me, you have a sweet tooth, you’ll love it.
After six hours of sightseeing, visiting local beaches, calling in at galleries and coffee shops, shopping and eating, we felt we’d had a good ‘taste’ of the city.
Why Oman should be your next luxury escape
Oman is renowned for the warm welcome it gives visitors. Somehow the country manages to combine a rich history and strong traditions, with stunning landscapes and a decidedly modern outlook. From the ornate mosques of Muscat to the dramatic Jebel Akhdar mountains, and some of the most stunning beaches on the Arabian Peninsula, Oman is an amazing destination that offers so much. As they say in Arabic, “jamil jiddan” … very beautiful.
Sarah Kingdom
Sarah Kingdom is a travel writer from Sydney, Australia. When she is not climbing or traveling, she lives on a cattle ranch in central Zambia.
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