European high-speed rail travel is broadly the same across the continent. Excluding low-cost operators, trains come in a two-class configuration with a 2+2 layout in standard class and a 2+1 layout in first, with service generally limited to a light meal and drink if offered at all. Italian operator Trenitalia bucks this trend, however, with its Frecciarossa services featuring ‘Executive’ — a better-than-first class cabin with luxurious seats and dining (and a hefty price point to match).
But with high-speed trains offering speed and convenience, is Frecciarossa’s comfort and luxury worth the additional cost? I put this unique product to the test on a short trip from Paris to Lyon and made the most of the opulence.
Let me start by explaining the product. On its Frecciarossa high-speed services, Trenitalia offers four classes: Standard (2+2), Premium (slightly more legroom), Business (2+1 with welcome drink), and Executive.
Executive features an exclusive carriage with ten solo seats that offer electronic recline and leg support. A business meeting pod is also exclusively available to Executive passengers. And a meal and drinks service is provided. Man in Seat 61 describes it as “perhaps the ultimate European high-speed train experience.”
Needless to say, as I arrived at Paris’ Gare de Lyon station, I was very excited to get onboard.
After my confusion last time at Gare de Lyon, I checked on Trenitalia’s website, and its Q&A said all departures are from Hall 1 or 2, so I headed there. I need not have worried, as my train was instantly recognisable as a bolt of red among the SNCF grey.
The train itself, a Frecciarossa 1000, is the flagship of Italy’s rail network. First introduced in 2015, it can carry 457 passengers at speeds of up to 400 kph (248 mph) but operates at 300 kph due to line restrictions. It is incredibly striking, especially in its blazing crimson livery.
I arrived 50 minutes before departure. Since there is no Frecciarossa lounge at Paris’ Gare de Lyon, I took in the Victorian stateliness of the train shed while the service was prepared.
Boarding began 25 minutes before departure. There was no premium priority lane, but I was still one of the first to board. Executive is in coach 1, which was at the front of this specific train. I boarded the very steep steps into the Executive saloon to be greeted by an incredibly opulent interior.
Indeed, the space between the seats is so generous you can put your luggage in front of you and still not impede your legroom. The aisle between the seats is so wide that the carriage no longer feels like a carriage. Rather, it feels like a premium lounge at a sports venue.
Each seat boasts electric recline and leg support, as well as space under the armrest for a briefcase, plus USB-A and European power points. A pull-out foldable tray table is located in the armrest.
As I was busy taking pictures of the seat, the attendant arrived and turned the seats to face the direction of travel. This is a cool feature (it’s also available on Japanese trains), but my view was obscured. I later moved to an open seat with a better view.
After taking in the majesty of the cabin, I inspected the seat. It felt decadently comfortable. The padding was deep like a sofa, and the creamy leather felt expensive (if quite hard wearing). It is unlike anything on the rails I have ever experienced, and is a totally over the top product.
In terms of privacy, the cabin itself poses a bit of a problem. Whilst it felt very spacious, the seats are not very private, with passengers in your eyeline if you look away from the window. The wings of the seat only help a little.
What is very unusual, however, is that the seats can also be angled towards or away from windows. That is to say, they can be turned towards the aisle for conversations, or towards the window for privacy. I had mine turned to the window for the entire journey.
There are a few downsides, however. The in-seat power points weren’t working, and there is no space to cradle your device, meaning you have to use the small tray table for watching movies (or precariously perch it on the windowsill and peer at it from an angle).
The carpet is also surprisingly rough, being a scratchy black affair that did not match the luxurious furnishings. These were mere minor complaints, however, as the level of luxury offered by the hard product is peerless in Europe.
The cabin also features a meeting room, but it was immediately occupied by two passengers for a Zoom call so I couldn’t take a photo. They were later ushered out by the conductor for not being ticketed for Executive class, and I managed to give it a road test.
It was a novel space, but with no real sound proofing, it wasn’t terribly private. The other passengers used it for luggage storage.
There is also a wardrobe for coats and jackets. During the journey, the meeting room was perennially occupied by business people sneaking in from the silent carriage next door making phone calls. I did not notice the noise from my seat (2D).
The train was very hot, but I put this down to it not being powered up while in the station. It became slightly cooler as the journey progressed.
As we glided out of Paris, an announcement informed us that we would be receiving a special snack in Executive class. This piqued my interest, as online reviews had given varying intel about what’s available, ranging from cold plates to just a snack.
What I received, in fact, was a multi-page menu including chef created dishes that covered everything from pasta to slow cooked pork. I was a little bit overwhelmed by the choice, so when the attendant came to take my order, I selected a handful of things to try by her recommendation. I ordered tomato pasta, pizza rolls, and a burrata, with Prosecco to drink.
While I waited for my meal, I tried out the Wi-Fi. It streamed YouTube without issue, but Trenitalia also enables passengers to stream cached content to their devices from an onboard media platform.
While I played some sitcoms from my iPad, a family of five (the only other passengers in the Executive cabin) were milling about, chatting. A downside of individual seats means talking to companions is tricky, but the seats can be turned individually to face each other on request.
I inspected the toilets, which were spacious and very modern, but also stained and worn. Again, the scale of the space was very unusual, with a full sized mirror and hand dryer. It felt much more like a bathroom in an office than a train.
The meal orders were taken quickly, but the food and beverages took nearly an hour to arrive. When they did arrive, however, they were excellent.
Served on china and tablecloths, the food was well flavoured, well cooked, and delightfully Italian. I especially enjoyed tearing into the burrata with oil and vinegar. The only letdown was the bread, which was distinctly of the long-shelf-life variety.
The attendant then came around for a second service and took my coffee and dessert order. I had an Americano and a chocolate cake that was sort of like a ladyfinger. It was very tasty and finished off the meal well.
Overall, Trenitalia delivered a very elaborate and well thought out meal service that exuded Italian cuisine. The service was leisurely so it would be wise to serve drinks first, given the pacing. I finished just as the train was skirting Lyon.
As I collected my things, I reflected on my experience, and concluded that Executive is a delightful splurge. The surcharge over business (on my trip an additional £80 on top of £150) is steep, but it felt genuinely special and just so unusual.
The seats are fantastic, the cabin is like a lounge on wheels, and the meal service is excellent, if slow. For fans of premium travel or high-speed rail, it is a must. For all other passengers (aside from the corporate class this product is aimed at), the surcharge might be better spent on fine dining at your destination.
[Final note, the slow meal service meant I was not able to check out the accessibility provisions, but Trenitalia makes a big show of this in its literature, noting that, “in coach 3, there are seats equipped for disabled guests” and that “the whole coach is designed to ensure these customers a travel experience in complete autonomy” including with a “very wide dedicated toilet”.]
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All images credited to the author, Fintan Horan-Stear
